Newtype use Ultrahigh Efficiency Mobile Suit (
Thu, 15 Mar 2001 14:43:10 +0800 wrote:

>We can strip the plating (i saw a version of the HGUC one once in a cool
>frost white/black/grey combo that looks great):
>how would we do that in a way that doesn't risk destroying or damaging >the plastic?

In my experience with the gold plated parts on 1/100 Wing HG kits, regular isopropyl alcohol will strip the plating. Dunno with the MGs though, but it's worth a try.

>Or we can try to go about matching the plating the best we can (ether >after stripping the kit or trying to cover the sprue marks):

ugh...sprue marks. and to think they'd already hid most of that problem with the HGUC Shiki...

>I figured undercoat of silver and coatings of clear yellow might do the

how 'bout adding a coat or two of semi-transparent gold (forgot which brand, but it's water-soluble) and then sealing it with at least three thin coats of clearcoat. That's what I do with my model cars that need gold parts such as wheels, etc...

>finally, what about gold metal foil (the types for model cars and >stuff). And then seal it with testors (or whatever brand you prefer).

that's hard, but doable if you're patient and careful enough.

>speaking of which = what will happen if you try to seal the kit with a >dull coat (to seal the decals and reduce some of the glare)?

hmmm...just don't use a dull coat of acrylic over enamel, as the enamel will react with the acrylic. however, putting enamel over acrylic won't result in the same thing. I learned that the hard way, after spraying Gunze flat topcoat onto an enamel-painted Rick Dom II and EX-S...

>anyone else have any suggestions on what we might be able to do? >(remember the Type 100 is out on March 25th). Lets brainstorm some ideas >while we wait for the real MG we all want in our collections (the GPO3).


GP-03S core fighter!!!

james r. 2


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