John Tay (webcaster99@yahoo.com)
Sun, 3 Sep 2000 19:15:05 -0700 (PDT)


Try to cut out the portion that u're goin' to transfer
& them place them on the spot of your kit. Position it
to the req. distance & then press on it to make it
stay temporarily. After u're satisfied with the
placement, then use your fingernail or some blunt end
of a stick (plastic) to rub gently on the dry transfer
(one hand holding on to the dry transfer). Do a
thorough rubbing covering all areas for about 3
minutes. You can put a little bit of pressure to
ensure uniformity.

Before removing all, try to remove the edge first to
see if all have been transferred, if not then cover it
back & do more rubbing.

U might want to try this :
If u're not painting, wipe the surface area first.
If u're painting, try to apply a thin top-coat first
(semi-gloss for e.g.) let it dry for few hrs & then
apply the dry transfer..u'll find that it will stick
to the areas very easily becos of the top-coating.

Also, it's better to safeguard your dry transfer by
applying another layer of top coat so that it will not
fall off after a period of time. Remember, not to
spary too much of the top coat or else it will form
some whitespot around your dry transfer...due to
excessive amount being applied.!!!

Hope this helps!

--- Chris Beilby <cbeilby@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >I'm a little puzzled about how these things work
> out on MG kits(and >some
> >HG kits). I've tried scratching them on with a coin
> or key but >it never
> >really works correctly. Any tips?
>
> What I always use is a fingernail cuticle tool. I
> rub with the blunt end
> (Mine is metal), but if you get one made from soft
> plastic, you can use the
> pointed edge...
>
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