garrick lee (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Wed, 29 Dec 1999 06:54:35 -0800 (PST)
aahh...thanks for the tips, all. sorry for the late
replies, my browser kept crashing all week long. i
now resolve to surf with less browser windows open.
--- Chien Ting Chin
> > also, how big a difference does the quality of the
> > brush matter? i got one of those cheapy 10 peso
> Big difference. A good brush has very fine soft
> hair. A lot of people
> like sable hair. Remember a good brush doesn't need
> to be expensive, I
> found good brushes for C$1-4 (about US$0.65-2.7)
> each. The coarse and
> stiff hair makes the stroke marks. An old
> toothbrush could do better.
what's the difference between "pure sable" and "sable
synthetic"? which should i get? the synthetic costs
more, but i heard that, ironically, it doesn't last as
long as pure?
> > if i wash the plastic, can i get away with no
> I use Testor and Gunze, and I have never yet need to
> prime (I will start
> priming soon, but that's for colour consistency not
> for paint adhesion)
> and I rarely bother to wash the plastic.
i found that paint chips off of unprimed surfaces more
easily. but that's nothing a little care won't fix, i
> Yes, but only marginally. These paints sticks to
> the plastic so well, a
> little bit of finger grease doesn't seem to be a
> problem. I have some
> fighter jet and tank paint jobs that stood the test
> of 12 years of time.
> (the decals, however, were a different matter).
hmm...it wasn't just a "little" grease that i had on
the gp01 shield, come to think of it. the kit wasn't
so well built (euphemism?), and i didn't play with it
too much, so it's not finger grease either. :P
> If Citadel doesn't adhere to the plastic without
> priming, that would be a
> very good reason to switch brand.
hmm...i don't think citadel's the problem. maybe it's
just the condition of that particular kit? i had
painted an unprimed 1/144 wing zero before the gp01,
and the paints stuck well. maybe the plastic
yesterday is different from newer models?
also...why do kits today have no plastic injection?
every piece is the same color, unlike some of the
> > need more 1/144 kits for practice :P (is the
> > grade gundam a good idea?)
> Yes! Because it's so cheap! The old 1980s kits are
> even better! The
> price is the same (300 Yens) but the articulation
> are terrible and
> proportions just bad. So? It's no holds bar with
> the experimentation.
> I was messing around with a 1980s 1/144 Guncannon
> just today to try out
> different ways to fill and sand the seams and to
> paint. (when I finish, I
> will put it side by side with the HGUC Guncannon)
> These kits are so bad,
> I highly recommend them for polishing your skills!
80's kits? ok. :)
i'm currently experimenting with the 1/144 wing kits.
they're all over the place and relatively cheap.
though i can't seem to find a genuine g-unit geminass
(it's a gundam that's actually got biceps and not the
pop-eye arm...) ANYWHERE...and there are the ben-di
fakes EVERYWHERE. this temptation is evil. :P
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This archive was generated by hypermail 2.0b3 on Wed Dec 29 1999 - 23:57:12 JST