Armand Larraga (
Fri, 24 Dec 1999 17:57:05 -0500

garrick lee wrote:
> can you, by any chance, save a bad paint job by
> turning to weathering effects?
> *big fat stupid grin*
> i'm still getting brush stroke marks, if you can't
> tell. something tells me these citadel miniature
> brushes are too small for gundams. and i thought
> painting big flat surfaces would be easy. :P how
> big a brush do i need? (airbrushes are out of the
> question, at least for the moment. i paint in the
> comfort of my room and it's gonna stink bad...i
> already do priming in the bathroom and have no
> intentions of painting in the john)

Yup, the small brushes for miniatures are only good for painting in the
details. I also use Citadel paints, Games Workshop is coming out with a
new "Tank Brush" which is designed for painting large vehicles, Use that
to cover large areas and the smaller brushes for details. Also you can
get brushes at an art store, a good flat brush would be ideal maybe a
1/2 inch wide, I've also had success with a fat round brush which I had
messed up once and the bristles got splayed out, But now it works like a
flat brush :)

> also, how big a difference does the quality of the
> brush matter? i got one of those cheapy 10 peso
> brushes from china and they suck eggs. they were
> courser and more uneven than hair from a certain
> region of the human anatomy. the lousy brushes didn't
> just give me brush stroke marks, they gave me wrinkles
> on the paint job (no kidding).

yup cheap brushes are pretty bad for general use, sometimes you might
find a use for them for other things like weathering. But try and get
some good brushes. Most people prefer something like "red sable" natural
brushes, But I have also gotten good results from brushes made of
"golden taklon" which is I think synthetic, But more affordable. Heh one
time at a dollar store I got a pack of Camel Hair brushes, man were they
the worst.
> if i wash the plastic, can i get away with no primer?
> (i ran out of primer, and have no intentions of
> grabbing more if i can help it). will washing the
> plastic help with the paint job? because i'm having
> fits with the shield of 1/144 gpo1 (yes, i bought that
> kit, i'm a masochist) and it's not just the brush
> stroke marks. the fahreaking paint (i'm using citadel
> paints) just...doesn't stick. sometimes the paint
> just slides off, circles about and forms those
> annoying uneven bubble marks when it dries. (some
> time ago, someone mentioned something about good paint
> having "consistency of milk"...hmmm).

Ok here's a general rule with Citadel Paints, 1) ALWAYS PRIME YOUR
MODEL, otherwise the paint will just bead up on the model. And always
prime outside. If you don't have your own yard, go to a public area that
is out of the way, and use newspaper so you won't mess up the
surroundings, That is what I used to do when I lived at a dorm at
college. Sometimes the security guards would get mad though 2) ALWAYS
ADD A FEW DROPS OF WATER TO CITADEL PAINT to thin it down. This is very
important as this type of paint tends to be kinda thick. Adding a few
drops of water will also help get rid of the brush strokes you are
having trouble with. You may have to put more than one coat of paint,
But this isn't a problem since the paint dries pretty fast.
> that's all for now. a merry bah humbug to you all!
> -garrick
> need more 1/144 kits for practice :P (is the first
> grade gundam a good idea?)

Hope this helps,

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