Federico Makabenta (yenm@iconn.com.ph)
Tue, 14 Dec 1999 08:53:23 +0800


Actually, I don't do that much puttying either. Only with problem spots like
product misalignments (very RARE) and really long gaps that you can't really
"cheat" on. Sanding and puttying gives it an extra finish - and I'm usually
more confident in painting it afterwards. Personal preference... :)

We don't have Testors stuff here (the Philippines) - so we usually stick
with Tamiya. Their epoxy is one of the best though - but I've never seen it
used to make custom poses here yet (we don't have that many highly skilled
modelers here).

Fed
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Savin <pedro@shiporama.org>
To: <gundam@aeug.org>
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 4:21 AM
Subject: [gundam] Putty free building (was: Sanding Problem)

> All this talk of puttying and sanding brings up something I've been
meaning
> to mention for a while. A well engineered kit (as most Bandai kits are)
> requires little if no putty if you glue it together properly. I'm working
> on the old 1/100 Type 100 kit, and even though the kit is like 10 years
old
> (as are the molds, which have deteriorated a bit), I've built the whole
> thing without any putty. The trick is careful dry fitting. If the parts
> don't fit well, chop off the locator pegs, then sand them on a flat
surface
> a bit. They should fit nicely now.
>
> Next comes the gluing, which is very important. IMHO, the best glue to
use
> would be a liquid cement such as Testors (I actually just use a big can of
> Methy-Ethyl Keytone from the hardware store, I'll never run out!). This
> glue is water thin, and actually melts the plastic just a bit, making for
a
> nice fit and VERY strong bond. Apply the glue to the mating surfaces of
> both parts (it dries VERY quickly, just apply it a few times to soften the
> parts a bit) with a small brush. Be really careful when applying the
glue,
> since it's thin, it will try to run under your fingers, then you get
> fingrerprints you have to sand off. Then stick 'em together (unless
you're
> really quick, they'll barely stick). Then apply a decent drop to the seam
> (preferably on the inside of the part), and cappilary action will draw the
> cement along the seam. Depending on the plastic, you may need to apply a
> couple of drops. After a few seconds, the plastic will soften, then
squeeze
> the parts a bit, and you'll see a little bit of plastic bubbling up from
the
> seams. If need be, adjust the fit of the parts while the glue is still
> soft. When this dries (I usually try to wait a full 24 hours), you can
just
> shave/sand off the little bubbled out part, and you've got a perfect seam,
> all plastic, no putty (I hate putty)! I haven't built any post ZZ kits,
but
> even the older ones fit quite well enough for this to work, so I would
think
> it should work on the newer ones without any difficulty.
>
> Also, I just want to mention that modeling tips are modeling tips, be it
> tanks, planes, mecha, whatever. There's TONS of information out there for
> modelers, and very little of it is geared toward Gundam modelers. Check
out
> modeling magazines, books, and websites, even if they aren't about mecha
> modeling, you'll be glad you did. Plastic is plastic, and those tank guys
> really know how to weather. :)
>
> Peter Savin
> pedro@shiporama.org
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tabby <tabby@psn.net>
> To: gundam@aeug.org <gundam@aeug.org>
> Date: Monday, December 13, 1999 8:13 AM
> Subject: Re: [gundam] Sanding Problem
>
>
> >>I presume that you didn't prime it. That's an advantage of priming -
being
> >>able to see whether or not you did a good job on sanding - and you can
> still
> >>fix it afterwards without much damage to the finished model. Look at it
> from
> >>around half an arms length and judge whether or not it looks good from
> that
> >>distance even after you paint it. Sometimes it's not necessary to sand
> again
> >>as the flaw might be minute enough to not be noticed.
> >
> >I'm using the silver *as* the primer. I used to spray-coat with primer,
and
> >then with silver, and then apply the surface paint, but as I got better
at
> >painting two undercoats began to seem redundant (besides, the silver
> >*really* brings out flaws for me to work on). Sanding down and repainting
> >the silver won't be any problem at all.
> >
> >I've only recently returned to building after a few years of letting my
> >models languish on the shelves. I've only gotten into putty-sanding now
> >because the internet and the GML are the first places I've been able to
> >find reliable modelling tips (hobby stores in town ignore anyone not
buying
> >RC Cars).
> >
> >tby
>
>
>
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