Mark Kuettner (mkuett@hotmail.com)
Mon, 02 Aug 1999 18:09:45 PDT


>Mark Kuettner wrote:
> >
> > >Recently got this question from a person visiting my site:
> > >
> > >------------
> > >Hey wassup. I recently bought a Master Grade MK.II r-178 model kit.
>Since
> > >I can't read the Japanese instruction booklet, I don't know how to put
>on
> > >these weirdo decals. There clear and don't seem to have any sticky
>backing
> > >to them.
> > >Do you have an answer?
> >
> > I have this kit, but I havn't inspected the decals yet. They most
> > likely will be one of 2 things: waterslide decals or dry-transfer
> > decals.
> >
> > Waterslide decals need to be put in lukewarm water which will soften
> > the decal enough after a minute to be removed from the backing paper.
> > You then apply the decal gently to the spot you want it to go. There
> > are some great setting and smoothing solutions out there (I use Micro-
> > set and Micro-sol) to get the decal to stick well over any type of
> > surface.
> >
> > The second possibility, and the most likely, is dry-transfer decals.
> > Buy a tool called a burnisher at a art store or any tool with a smooth
> > round hard tip to it. Position the decal in the place you want it on the
> > model, and hold it VERY still. Then rub over the decal completely
> > with the tool. The decal will be applied with the pressure used, so
> > make sure to rub the entire decal, or you will only get part of it to
> > stick, and the other part remaining on the paper. Don't forget to seal
> > the decals with a good flat topcoat of clear paint.
> >
> > Mark Kai
> >
> > _______________________________________________________________
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> >
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>
>Actually, all of the MG's I've assembled included a mixture of
>peel-and-stick and dry transfer. The peel and stick are the ones that I
>refuse to use...
>--
>Christopher Beilby

Yeah, the dry-transfer are much better for modelling. The peel and
stick decals are a result of Bandai making their models "fan friendly"
and turning them more into toys than models with the system injection,
the stickers for decals and the snap-fit construction.

While this makes for a quick satisfaction for a gundam fan not intere-
sted in futzing with glue and paint, this makes for a harder job for
the modeller in some respects. The sticker decals make themselves
very obvious. The thickness of these stickers makes for unrealistic
markings and have been known to peel off by themselves. The snap-fit
system is also a pain because good modelling w/ glue involves "dry-
fitting" the pieces together to check for misalignments. Well, you try
"dry-fitting" these snap-fit pieces once and it's nearly immpossible
to pry them apart again. The only thing you can really do is snip off
the allignment pins of all the pieces before trying them. The system
injection coloring is not bad if you intend to paint the kit in it's
intended colors, but plan on spend a lot of time priming if you intend to
make a variant color scheme for your kit.

Mark Kai

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